Take the first exit off I95 as you enter the Sunshine State (or last one on your way out, depending on which way you look at it) and head East and, eventually, you will find yourself in Fernandina Beach, Florida. http://www.fbfl.us/ Known as the "Isle of the Eight Flags" for all the various groups that have laid claim to the island at one time or another, Fernandina Beach sits on Amelia Island in the extreme North east corner of Florida, right on the Atlantic Ocean. On the southern end of the island sits the Ritz Carlton luxury hotel. With over 400 rooms, four restaurants, a golf course, tennis center, spa, and pristine private beach, the Ritz has been the backdrop for a number of movie and tv shoots and is a great escape for those with caviar tastes. http://www.ritzcarlton.com/en/Properties/AmeliaIsland/Default.htm For the rest of us, there are plenty of more affordable accommodations in Fernandina.
Just a stone's throw up A1A/Fletcher from the Ritz is Peter's Point, a public beach with clean facilities, outdoor showers, and plenty of free parking. Spend some time soaking up the sun there, then head further North to Sliders Seaside Grille. Located just a dunes throw from the water, Sliders is a 60 year old former roadhouse with a rock and roll past. Guitarist and current Allman Brother Derek Trucks played his first paying gig there as a teenager, Leon Russel has been a musical guest, as has famous former Buffett harp player Fingers Taylor with KD Moore. Currently undergoing some second floor renovations, the main restaurant and bar is still open. But, the best place to pull up a stool is at the tiki bar out back. Sit at the bar and you can sip a cold Corona while watching the surf roll in, or park it at a table and enjoy the island breezes and live music. I, myself, have spent many hours there chowing down on fried pickles and Grouper sandwiches, but locals in the know also swear by the Crab Cakes and Bourbon Scallops. Their locally famous and highly dangerous Key Lime Pie shooter, concocted and perfected by bartender and fireman "K1A" (full disclosure, my brother Kevin) left when he did. But he tells me he has passed the recipe on to one of the new staff members, so it's worth asking for one when you visit. An added attraction is that you can park right on the beach behind Sliders. From there it's just a short walk to the bar if you get hungry or run low on tailgating supplies. Note: I don't recommend driving onto the sand unless you have a four wheel drive and know how to use it - or a $20 bill in your pocket to pay the local who pulls you out. Rumor has it good looking girls usually get a discount... http://slidersseaside.com/
Next stop in Fernandina is what is being touted as the "Northernmost Tiki Bar" on A1A, the just added back deck bar at Sandy Bottoms Beach Bar and Grill. They recently doubled their seating capacity by putting tables and chairs on the beach. So, although there is a full service restaurant and several places to enjoy adult beverage inside, the best place to be is sitting right in the sand. Sandy Bottoms has nightly drink specials, a good selection of Rum and excellent wings. They also have a webcam so you can see and be seen. http://sandybottomsamelia.com/
If beachside bars and boat drinks are NOT what you're looking for, you can always head to Fort Clinch State Park, home of one of the most well preserved 19th century forts in the country. With historical reenactments, a fishing pier, camping, and a largely unspoiled beach, Fort clinch offers family friendly activities. And, for those that might want to work off last night's plate of fried shrimp, there are also mountain biking and hiking trails. As a State Park, there is a small fee for cars and camping. http://www.floridastateparks.org/fortclinch/
If you like to balance your beach time with shopping, Fernandinda Beach also has a historic district, with lots of quaint gift shops and clothing stores, including "Last Flight Out", famous for having been visited by Jimmy Buffett a few years back. At the marina, you can catch a ferry to Cumberland Island, charter a fishing trip, enjoy a river cruise or sunset sail, or just hang out and watch the shrimp boats bring in their catch. And, when you work up a thirst, you're just a short walk from one of the oldest bars in Florida, the storied Palace Saloon. Over 100 years old, The Palace was opened as a true "gentleman's establishment," with complimentary towels hanging from the bar to wipe the foam from patron's mustaches. Only slightly changed and occasionally upgraded since then, the Palace now has three bars, including a pool and game room and a nightclub, but you can still feel the ghosts of old ship captains that once walked the floors. http://thepalacesaloon.com/
At the marina, you can also catch a ferry ($20 round trip) to our next stop: St. Mary's, Georgia.
St. Mary's, Georgia is a riverfront town with a boatload of Southern charm. http://www.stmaryswelcome.com/ It is also home to the Kings Bay Submarine Navy base. Step off the ferry and head directly across the street to The Riverview Hotel - a 95 year old hotel and restaurant. With only 18 reasonably priced rooms, each uniquely decorated, it's a great place to spend the night. Check in, then head downstairs to for dinner at Captain Seagles Restaurant, where locals swear by the Calamari (I've had them - perfectly cooked and delicious) and my mom's favorite, Shrimp and Grits. With Lang's Seafood Market just across the street, there is plenty of fresh fish for the kitchen. Want a pre-dinner cocktail? There are two bars to choose from. Seagle's Saloon is overseen by "Cindy Dean the Porno Queen". Behind the bar for more than a decade, Cindy is a local legend with a heart of gold but a sailor's tongue, known for holding court over a diverse group from lawyers to construction workers. Don't go in if you're easily embarrassed or have thin skin! On the other side of the restaurant is Gala's, recently dubbed the "Mar-Tiki Bar", a combination of their signature drink, the Martini, and the Aloha vibe bartender "K1A" brought to it when he started a few months ago. Try a specialty cocktail like the Eye of The Hurricane, or a Martini made with one of their many flavored vodkas like Double Espresso, Kiwi, Mango, and Acai Berry. The last time I stopped by Seagles, the owners' son, Kevin, was working hard to refurbish one of the two large outdoor patios and talking about starting to book more live music, including - possibly - some Trop rock. Heads up: the Saloon allows smoking, the "Mar-Tiki" Bar does not. http://www.riverviewhotelstmarys.com/
Like Fernandina, St. Mary's also has a shopping area, with antiques, book and gift stores, an ice cream shop and more. There are also museums and trolley tours for history buffs and a waterfront park for the children (be sure to bring plenty of bug spray during the Summer months, when the sand gnats can be especially annoying).
And, finally, if you REALLY want to seek out a local gem, you'll need a car to drive to Lucky Dawgs. Located at the corner of a small strip mall and gas station well away from the water, this former hot dog joint has recently gone Parrot Head. They opened an outdoor patio and tiki bar, built a stage, and decorated it all like the Jimmy Buffett songs they play over the sound system on Radio Margaritaville. Live music from regional bands, Low Country Boils, and nightly drink and all you can eat seafood specials keep the locals happy. http://luckydawgscamdenga.com/
That's it for this "insiders look" at the beaches and bars of Fernandina Beach, Florida and St. Mary's, Georgia. Two towns separated by a river and well worth a visit.
Thanks to my brother, one time Fernandina and current St. Mary's resident and world class bartender, Kevin (aka "K1A"), for the help with this post....
Do I recall correctly, sir, that you've been known to vacay regularly in Southport?
ReplyDeleteI am thinking about getting a sailboat...but need a place to park it.